Stairs
Stairs that are easy to use are also safe
stairs. For example, handrails on stairways are an important safety
factor for all of us. But for many people, stairs are useless unless
they have handrails. Stairways are a necessary evil, second only to
bathrooms in incidence of accidents. As we become older, stairways
become more and more difficult to use and their design becomes
critical. The information in this section applies to both interior
and exterior stairs in your home.
Treads and Risers 
Tread and riser designs are
extremely important.
Risers in excess of 6-7" are difficult for many people to climb
and are dangerous tripping hazards.
Outside risers should have a maximum height of 4". The tread
should be wide enough to allow your foot to rest completely on the
tread without extending over the edge of the step. Where the total
length of a stairway is limited, you can extend tread width by
installing a projecting edge, or a nosing on the front of the
treads. However, unless you install them properly, nosings can
create tripping hazards, especially for people with leg paralysis.
Nosings should be beveled, either by the insertion of a piece of
wood or metal that will allow toes to slide up and over or by
carpeting to slant the nosing projection.
Open risers (found on many exterior wooden stairs) are a real
hazard to most people because of their tripping potential, but you
can easily close them off with pieces of wood.
Handrails
You should install handrails on both sides of
your stairways so that you or anyone else who has strength on only
one side will have support as you go up or come down. If you have a
wide stairway or you can't provide handrails on both sides, you may
want to install a single handrail in the center of the stairway.
This installation allows users to keep the handrail on their strong
side. Handrails should also extend beyond the top and the bottom
nosings because users need their support to get on and off the last
step.
Handrails should be designed so that users can grip the rail
between thumb and fingers. This "grasp-ability" or opposition is
essential to the safety of users.
Handrails should be mounted approximately 11/2" away from the
wall to allow adequate grasping space for knuckles and fingers. They
should be mounted to support up to 250 pounds at any point. You can
secure a handrail by installing mollybolts through the wallboard or
screwing directly into the upright studs behind the wall surface.
Handrails made from wood should be properly finished to avoid
splinters.
Stairway Lighting
Many stairway accidents can be
prevented with lighting that shines uniformly on the steps and the
top and bottom landings. Be certain, however, that your stairway
lights don't create glare or distract persons who use the stairs.
Indirect lighting (lighting that does not shine directly on the
object being lighted), is the best alternative for stairways.
Ramps
Many barrier-free design specialists prescribe
ramps wherever floor levels change. Ramps help people in
wheelchairs, but for others they create additional problems. Bifocal
wearers sometimes misjudge the correct distance and slope of a ramp.
Some users slip if the surface is not properly prepared. By
following the advice listed below, you can make your ramps safer.
Slope
Exterior ramps should have a maximum slope of 1"
of rise for every 20" of length (1 to 20 slope) to insure that ice,
snow, leaves, and other debris won't create a sliding or slipping
hazard. If possible, they should be located where sunshine will
reach them in winter to help melt accumulated snow or ice.
Interior ramps should have a maximum slope of 1" to 12" because
many people in wheelchairs cannot push themselves up a steeper
incline, and a steeper slope can cause a wheelchair to tip over
backwards.
Ramps used in and outside the home are usually made of treated
wood. Their structural details are shown below.
Outside, concrete or metal ramps may be more suitable than wood
ramps. In some cases, ramps with an extreme slope (1 to 8, for
example) may be appropriate for persons in wheelchairs if they have
strong upper torsos or power wheelchairs. Before you install ramps
of any kind, determine the exact needs of the people who will use
them.
Landings
Landings are necessary at the top and bottom
of ramps, and at intermediate levels where a ramp changes direction
or rises higher than 3'. Intermediate landings provide rest areas
and adequate maneuvering space for turns. Landings should be at
least 5' long at all of these locations.
Handrails
If you install ramps, make sure to provide
handrails on both sides, for the same reasons they are needed on
stairways.
Ramp Surfaces
Since an inclined surface creates an
increased slipping hazard, you should provide a non-slip surface on
all ramps. For exterior wooden ramps, you can apply paint mixed with
sand. One pound of silica sand added to a gallon of paint (and mixed
thoroughly) is effective. Several paint manufacturers make non-skid
deck paints which provide the same type of non-skid surface.
You can also use rolled roofing material. When properly tacked
down, it provides a good non-slip surface for walking or wheeling.
If your ramps are exposed to snow and ice, or have an extreme
slope, you or another attendant will have to assist members of your
household or visitors who use wheelchairs. Battens (small strips of
wood nailed to the surface) provide adequate footing for this
purpose.
Broom-finished concrete is an excellent surface for exterior
concrete ramps.
Make sure the broom strokes are perpendicular to the slope of the
ramp. On interior ramps, most surfaces work adequately if they
aren't slippery. Try to avoid using carpeting, waxed linoleum, or
glossy painted surfaces.
Portable ramps
Portable ramps are sometimes adequate,
but are usually short and can only facilitate a small level change.
They are available from many surgical supply houses, and from
manufacturers listed in the Resources.
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